In the enchanting shadows beneath the Pont Alexandre III in Paris, a transformation occurred on a Thursday evening that transported fashion enthusiasts back to the roaring 1920s. John Galliano, the visionary force behind Maison Margiela, orchestrated a mesmerizing Spring/Summer 2024 Artisanal show, ingeniously reimagining a dive bar with ramshackle bentwood chairs, sickly violet-flavored cocktails, and mercury-backed mirrors adorned in peeling gilt frames. Lit by the ethereal glow of the first full moon of the year, the event unfolded as a captivating ode to a bygone era when fashion was not merely about clothing but a marvel that invoked gasps, dreams, and bated breath.
Galliano, renowned for his theatrical approach, infused the dive bar with characters inspired by the voyeuristic work of Brassaï, encapsulating the stilted movements reminiscent of jointed marionettes or the jerking motion of early cinema. In an era saturated with mundane iPhone-recorded occurrences, Galliano’s deliberate journey back in time challenged the audience to reevaluate the ordinary and rediscover the extraordinary in the realm of fashion.
The Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2024 Artisanal show did more than recreate a historic ambiance; it seamlessly merged the past with the present, forging a unique narrative through the impeccable craftsmanship of the clothing. Models, now aptly referred to as muses by Galliano, took center stage, their bodies transformed by prostheses, corsetry, and the masterful touch of Dame Pat McGrath’s make-up artistry. However, despite the extravagance of the setting and the models’ emotive prowess, the true star of the show remained the clothes.
The runway unfolded as a spectacle of technique, experimentation, and creative expression. Galliano’s ingenuity resonated through each piece, perfectly aligned with the peculiar setting and the near-otherworldly bodies adorning them. The collection showcased an array of body-smothering garments inspired by the Fauvist artist Kees van Dongen. These pieces, reminiscent of fantasy worlds painted with blue-bodied figures and skies in pink and green, seamlessly melded with the muses, blurring the lines between fabric and flesh.
The garments, a cavalcade of unreal bodies, featured cinched waists reminiscent of Belle Époque grandees and padded cocotte silhouettes paying homage to Christian Dior’s midcentury couture. Galliano’s collection exuded echoes of his own fashion narratives, drawing parallels to his iconic work at Dior. Nostalgia permeated the air, as the gold tissue-lamé dress veiled with tulle evoked memories of Suzanne von Aichinger in the late 1990s, while padded suits transported the audience back to Yasmeen Ghauri’s iconic appearance in October 1994.
